Friday 29 April 2011

Islands, mountains, waterfalls and more dolphins.

 

My first stop in Laos was Si Phan Don, meaning “4000 Islands”, right in the south near the Cambodian border. In a wide stretch of the Mekong river, there are loads of islands (like, 4000) that pop up in the dry season, although most of them are just rocks or bits of scrub, and only about three or four of the islands are inhabited. It’s so beautiful here! It’s so peaceful, and makes you feel like you’re just floating down the Mekong. I stayed on Don Det, which is the backpacker-y island and so a bit less peaceful, but other than the main strip of banana-pancake restaurants and bungalow-by-the-river guesthouses, it’s just some Lao wooden stilt houses and water buffalo. There’s not a lot to do except lie around in hammocks, drink Lao whisky and lazily pedal bicycles around in the sweltering heat. Awesome.

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this scraggly kitten wandered into my bungalow, so I fed him rice cakes. we were the best of friends. I named him Rice Cake.

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On my second day, I went on a kayak trip to see a bit more of the area. We went to the biggest waterfall in South-East Asia, it was pretty big. We went down THREE (!) sets of rapids, but they weren’t very big. We also saw more Irrawaddy dolphins (n.b. not as rare as previously though), although they weren’t putting on as much as a show as in Kratie. We also saw another waterfall, and ate watermelon on a rock. A fun excursion that made my arms very painful the next day.

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hardcore canoe crew

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rapids! or this might be a waterfall.

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red flowers by the Mekong

Continuing my journey north, I’m now in a town called Pakse. This town is mainly a starting-point for trips around more rural parts of southern Laos, but I like the old-timey feel here. Last night I met three sexy French hippies, and we ended up in a Laos discotheque dancing to Justin Bieber until the early hours.

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beer garden by the river

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when you pull up at a club and it’s called VICTORY, you know you’re in for a good night

I was supposed to meet the hippies this morning to go on a motorbike day trip (I always feel a little concerned doing long drives on my own, in case I have an accident or my bike breaks down or something), but they were more hungover than Little Miss No-Hangovers, so I did what I had to do and went on the 200km round-trip solo. This trip was amazing, not because of any of the sights I went to see, but just because the Laos countryside in itself is jaw-droppingly beautiful. Yet again, photos can’t do it justice, and nor can my lame wordy descriptions. You’ll just have to come here and see it for yourself.

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this was the most amazing waterfall I’ve every been to; like a fantasy of a jungle paradise, except it was real and I was there

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plate of cabbage, pint of green tea and a basket of sticky rice, yum

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another waterfall, one day I might get bored but not yet

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pretty field

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the ferry to Champasak…two canoes joined by some wooden planks. that’s my bike on the right.

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a buddha I found in the trees

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ancient Khmer serpents at Wat Phu

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dancing shiva

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gah, this place is just insanely picturesque, it’s too much

 

 

At one point I was thinking about how much of an awesome and badass motorbike driver I am, before pulling into a petrol station in a little rural village. As soon as I stopped, I noticed the horrible stink of burning plastic. I tried to unload my rucksack from my bike to get at the petrol cap, and then saw that I'd managed to weld the strap of my bag onto the bike exhaust, and it wasn’t coming off. I flapped around to explain this situation to the petrol attendant, and she brought a pair of scissors and had to hack my bag away from the exhaust pipe. I wonder if this ever happens to Hells Angels.

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lol asians

Thursday 28 April 2011

Where am I?

 

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Sunday 24 April 2011

Dolphin day

 

Tonight I’m in Kratie (pronounced kra-cheh), a small town about 8 hours northeast of Phnom Penh. The first thing I did on arriving here (after washing off a day’s worth of bus-stink) was hire a motorbike and head out into the countryside. The Cambodian countryside is STUNNING; miles and miles of lush green forest, scattered with wooden stilt houses, skinny dogs and barefoot children playing in the dirt out the front, and maybe some women with stands selling rainbow-coloured fruit or old glass Pepsi bottles full of petrol. Even more beautiful than the Vietnamese countryside, albeit because the country’s poorer and so there’s less development.

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We drove for about half an hour, to an area of the Mekong river where you can spot rare Irawaddy freshwater dolphins. There are only about 250 of these dolphins left in the world, all in this stretch of the Mekong, and about 100 in Cambodia. I think that on this boat trip, I saw all 100, several times. I was either lucky or just chose a better place, because other people I’ve spoken to tried to see these dolphins, but either saw none or just the odd fin. Our boat was surrounded by dolphins for a whole hour; they were more just coming up for air rather than flipping around doing tricks, but that was so beautiful to watch, and sometimes we were treated to a flat-nosed face coming up to say hello, or some roly-polys on the surface. I felt so chilled out sitting on the boat as the sun went down, the smooth surface of the water broken only by dolphins, jumping fish, and our boat driver’s spit. This was definitely the best thing I’ve done so far on this trip.

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view from the boat; I didn’t try to take any photos of the dolphins because I’d rather sit and watch them. and actually you know what dolphins look like anyway

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this monk was talking on the phone when I took this

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I might stop writing words on this blog, and you can just guess where I am based on what beer I’m drinking

Saturday 23 April 2011

Phnom Penh & Phnom Tamao Animal Santuary

This post is mainly photos from my day trip to an animal sanctuary. Lots of happy animals = happy Laura.

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lady making my dinner – spicy papaya salad

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eating my dinner on the floor. I learnt that when you say ‘spicy’ in Cambodia it means ‘SPICY’

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mumma and bubba monkey.

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fat dadda piggy

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squirrels

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giant flying squirrel

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samba deer

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baby muntjaac deer

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stinky marten

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baby muntjac deer after I fed him Smile

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some really big bird

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this gibbon loved our tour guide, so cute. when she insulted him, he went to cry in the corner and started howling.

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crocodile with his mouth open so he can warm up

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peacock

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pretty iguana tail

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more gibbon (I think)

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gibbon drinking ice tea

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mumma and bubba gibbon

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mumma gibbon having some ice tea

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sun bears rescued from illegal bear trading. loads of them were missing paws that had gone into soup Sad smile

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moon bears taking a bath

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sun bear

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this is a leopard but you probably knew that

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this is a tiger

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dinner

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lucky, the happiest elephant I’ve ever met

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dinner at a vegetarian restaurant: mushroom gruel, friend tofu scum and a bowl of raw cabbage Smile this floats my boat

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Cambodian rooftops and a cyclo driver convinced that I need his assistance

Other good news: yesterday I downsized my rucksack from 60+10 litres (cumbersome) to 40 litres (about the size of a schoolbag). Anyone who’s never been backpacking will think this is boring and incidental; anyone who’s been backpacking will understand that this is the most liberating thing you can do.

Phnom Penh is currently in the midst of a humungous thunder storm so I’m hiding out at my hostel. Tomorrow heading north to Kratie, on the way to Laos.